The Busójárás of Mohács: Let’s Scare Winter Away!

Many of you would start nodding fervently if I were to say: we have had enough of winter. The homeliness of Christmas and the vividness of New Year’s Eve are long behind us. The weather is bitterly cold, dry, or wet; the wind is howling; snow seldom falls (and when it does, it falls only by mistake); and the sun smiles down on us with distant contempt rather than warmth. The good news is that winter is reaching its end, and the Busós will be busy helping to make it go away during a peculiar festival from 27th February to 4th March in the city of Mohács.

The Busójárás (‘Busó Carnival’, or ‘the march of Busós’) is a winter ritual held at the end of Carnival season (farsang), taking place in Mohács, a city near Pécs. During this festival, people dress up in strange and frightening costumes, make deafening noises, sometimes even behave outrageously, and march through the squares and streets to bury the burdensome presence of winter. Sharing some of these features, similar festivals are celebrated in many parts of the world. What is called the Kukeri parade in Bulgaria means Tschäggätte in Switzerland and Busójárás in Hungarian.

But let the myths talk for themselves. A long time ago, during the Ottoman (Turkish) occupation, people were forced to seek refuge in the swampland. Being fed up with the constant danger, they devised a cunning plan. One night, they crossed the Danube while wearing handmade masks and noise-making instruments, and rushed on the Ottoman troops, who were so frightened that their hearts were about to jump out of their chests. Mohács has since been liberated, and the Turks have learnt their lesson, but the Busós still have much to do: except that they are no longer scaring away the troops of occupying empires, but winter and evil spirits.

According to a more common, dull origin story, a South Slavic ethnic group, the Šokci (Hungarian: sokácok) settled in the area, bringing this custom of uncertain origin with them. Initially, the tradition was kept alive in small groups, which were later joined by the rest of the community. The first written record of Busójárás is as unconventional as the festival itself. In 1783, members of the Bishopric of Pécs visited the city and could not help but grab their crosses, surprised by the people in wool-covered, horned, grinning masks. Even banning the tradition was considered, saying that people were celebrating in a pagan manner. Eventually, this plan was abandoned for good: since then, the Busó Carnival has become a tradition and tourist attraction not only in Mohács but nationwide.

Since 2009, the festival has been listed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity of UNESCO, and later in 2012, it was officially declared  part of Hungarian heritage.

Overall, attending this six-day-long festival is a peculiar way to celebrate.

The most distinctive participants of the event are, of course, the Busós wearing bocskors (sandal-like moccasins made of leather), boots, and masks. Their costumes have not changed much over time. They still wear authentic fur coats of sheepskin (bunda), wide linen trousers (gatya), ornate wool socks (cifra harisnya), and boots, with a tarisznya (a small sack or bag with one or two straps, often made of linen, leather, or wool) over their shoulders, and a belt or rope around their waist, to which a cowbell is attached. If the cowbell does not make enough noise, the Busós still have plenty of rattles of various sizes and volumes. Their most important accessory is the willow-carved, sheepskin-hooded mask, traditionally painted with animal blood, which conceals their identity during the festival.

According to tradition, if a Busó reveals his face, the magic will be gone. Therefore, during the Carnival season, they are not bound by any common moral rules. In addition, to the previously mentioned, they always carry a wooden flanged mace (tollasbuzogány) or a wooden pitchfork (favilla), in case the winter itself or a malevolent spirit materialises. These ‘weapons’ also come in handy if the Busós want to insult the visitors. But there is no need to fear them, they will not hurt anyone – just sprinkle people with flour and feathers. In addition to scaring away the cold season, the Busós perform spring rituals by scattering ashes on the corners of houses. During a noisy procession, they carry the ‘coffin of winter’ around before burning it. And finally, their most important task is to provide entertainment, so that, together with visitors, they can bid farewell to winter – which symbolises death and passing – with laughter and good humour.

Photos: Mohácsi Busójárás Hivatalos Oldala

Misfortunes never come alone, and neither do the Busós. The Jankeles come to the aid of the Busós and accompany them while keeping the children at bay. The costumes of the Jankeles are made of rags (covering their faces as well), and they walk the streets carrying sacks which they sometimes throw at the crowd. The sacks are usually filled with ashes, flour, or sawdust, but some of the Jankeles, who take their duties too seriously, use harder fillings, such as stones or bricks. Last but not least, there is another group of participants: the Szépbusós (‘pretty Busós’). The Szépbusós are women dressed in traditional folk (often Šokci) clothing, covering their faces with veils, as well as men wearing traditional wedding attire. Their role is to guide and lead the masked, blinded Busós, by hooking onto them or walking alongside them.

The distinguished company then marches, shrieking, from house to house, where they perform rituals, offer good wishes, or break the carts of their foes. For all these efforts, the families used to serve them meals and drinks. After setting the mood, the real show begins with the boating of the Busós: just as their ancestors did according to legend, they paddle across the Danube. After the boating, the festival continues with the Carnival parade, which typically starts from Koló Square. This is where diverse groups of visitors gather, who also deserve to be mentioned. The groups consist of enthusiastic locals, families, and circles of friends. The purpose of their gathering is to preserve and pass on traditions, spend quality time together, and have fun.

Around 58 groups, consisting of between 1,000 and 1,200 members, dress in costumes, put on their masks, and thus establish the community of Busós. For the crowds filling Koló Square, the festival begins with the boom of an old muzzle-loading siege cannon, after which they march to Széchenyi Square, the main square of Mohács, and the Carnival officially starts. The festival programmes include various activities, such as making noise and being mischievous with the newcomers. At dusk, everyone returns to the main square, where the wooden coffin (symbolising the burial of winter), which has been taken around the streets, is placed on the huge bonfire and then burned.

The festival used to last only 3 days and ended with the burning of the coffin on Shrove Sunday (farsangvasárnap). However, over time, it was extended by 3 more days, therefore the grand finale of today’s Busójárás falls on Shrove Tuesday (also known as Mardi Gras, or ‘Fat Tuesday’ in other parts of the world, in Hungarian: húshagyókedd), and the events of Shrove Sunday are repeated. Nevertheless, the Busójárás are not limited to such spectacles. In the main square of Mohács, craft fairs, dance halls, and concerts await visitors for six days. In addition to the various performances, you can also gain insight into the costume preparations of some Busó groups.

Translated by: Tímea Hajtmann